02 Climbing Nevis Peak
攀登尼维斯山**
Self-conquest is the greatest of victories.
—Plato
My trips to the Caribbean usually include nothing but sun, sand, and umbrella drinks. But on a recent getaway to the West Indies my husband, Tom, and I ventured out of our comfort zones and climbed to the top of Nevis Peak, a dormant volcano in the center of Nevis, a small island nation located about 220 miles southeast of Puerto Rico.
We had spent our honeymoon in Nevis and had admired the beauty of the Peak but gave no thought to visiting the summit. In the weeks leading up to our return — to celebrate our fifth anniversary — we discussed climbing the mountain, though neither of us had ever attempted such a feat.
On our first full day in Nevis, we arranged a guide through the concierge at the Four Seasons. Early the next morning we met our guide, Sheldon, and traveled together by taxi to the staging point for the climb.
The hike started out pretty much as we’d imagined — a moderately uphill nature walk. We passed old, delightfully rundown sugar mills, breadfruit and banana trees, and mischievous green vervet monkeys that made us laugh.
“No need for dat, mon,” said Sheldon, as I slathered my arm with sunscreen. “We’ll be out of da sun in a few.” Wearing Dickies and a green logo T-shirt, his style screamed urban hipster, not mountain guide, and his thick Caribbean accent made his words dance.
He was right. Minutes later the forest began to close in on us and the sun was gone. We were dwarfed by the colossal roots and towering trees as we made our way through the dark, dense, and muddy jungle. The incline continued to increase until it seemed impossible to walk without falling off the earth. That’s when we encountered the first knotted rope, needed to aid our ascent, followed by dozens more. Hours passed; my heart raced and drops of sweat made my eyes sting. As I continuously climbed over rocks, maneuvered under fallen trees and used the rope to pull myself up nearly vertical slopes, it dawned on me — I had the strength to do so, because for most of my life, I wouldn’t have been able to.
Thanks to my general lethargy, combined with my love for ice cream and almost daily dates with jumbo bags of Doritos, I hit my all-time high of 216 pounds during my sophomore year of college. All the nacho cheese flavor and Cherry Garcia in the world couldn’t mask the shame I felt for letting my body pass the 200-pound mark. It took a nasty fall in which I severely sprained my ankle to change my ways. The fall forced me into six weeks of physical therapy to help strengthen my ankle. Ultimately, the fall and subsequent stint of PT were blessings in disguise. I discovered my body related really well to exercise and, much to my dismay, I relished working up a sweat.
And now, here I was, 65 pounds thinner and climbing a mountain; making my body work harder than any other time in my life. Even after my significantweight loss and ability to kick it out in a spinning class, I still didn’t think of myself as fit. But after reaching the cloud-covered summit and making our trek back down the mountain, I changed the way I thought about my body — physically powerful and beautiful.
As we approached the edge of the jungle, it began to rain. The light drizzle turned to torrential downpour and I felt an overwhelming sense of cleanliness. The mud that by now covered every inch of my body washed away, as did the negative feelings about myself that I’d harbored for years.
—Jennifer Leckstrom
征服自己是*伟大的胜利。
——柏拉图
通常,我去加勒比海旅行,除了阳光、海滩和带饮料伞的饮品就没别的了。但*近在和丈夫汤姆去的西印度群岛之旅中,我大胆跳出我们的舒适范围,爬上了尼维斯山的**,那是一座位于尼维斯**地带的休眠火山,尼维斯是一个距离波多黎各东南部大约二百二十英里的岛国。
我们的蜜月是在尼维斯度过的,我们一直对尼维斯山峰的美赞不绝口,但从来没想过要参观它的**。在重回尼维斯山庆祝我们结婚五周年纪念日的前几个星期,尽管我们都没有尝试过这么了不起的壮举,但还是商量着要爬山。
在尼维斯的**天,我们在四季酒店的服务台找了一个导游。第二天一早,我们见到了我们的导游谢尔登,然后一起坐出租车前往集结点准备爬山。
开始,这次爬山和我们想象中的差不多,就是一次适度地向上自然前进。我们见到了古老的、令人喜悦的萧条糖厂、面包树和香蕉树,还有让人开怀大笑的淘气小猿猴。
“没必要用那个,女士。”谢尔登在我往手臂上狂涂防晒霜的时候说道,“一会儿我们不会在太阳底下走的。”他穿着迪凯斯工装裤和带有绿色标志的运动衫,更像城里的时髦人物,而不是一个山区向导,他那浓重的加勒比口音说出的话就跟跳舞似的。
他说得没错。几分钟之后,我们完全被笼罩在森林之中,太阳也不见了,在阴暗、农密、泥泞的丛林中一路穿梭的我们在巨大的植物和高耸的树木旁边显得很渺小。坡度在不断增加,直到看上去几乎无路可走时,我们就用了**根多节绳索帮助爬山了,之后我们还用了好多根。几小时过去了,我心跳加速,眼睛被汗水刺痛。就在不断地爬过岩石、周旋于倒下的树木之间、用绳子帮自己爬上几近垂直的山坡时,我突然茅塞顿开,自己有这个能力做到,却从来没意识到,因为自己大半辈子都没想过要试试。
多亏了自己的懒惰,加上对冰激凌的喜爱和几乎每天都要吃的大包大包的多力多滋玉米片,整个大二我的体重一直保持在二百十六磅的高纪录。而全世界所有的烤干酪辣味玉米片和樱桃牛奶冰激凌都无法掩盖我体重超过二百磅的羞愧,直到有一次我摔得不轻,严重扭伤脚踝才改变了自己的生活方式。那次跌倒迫使我接受六个星期的物理**以强健脚踝,*后,那次跌倒和之后的适量体育锻炼其实是件好事,我发现自己的身体真的适合锻炼,而让我惊讶的是,我喜欢上了汗流浃背的运动。
现在的我,轻了六十五磅,爬着山,身体比任何时候都要努力。即使在减掉那么多体重、能够玩转动感单车之后,我还是觉得自己不够强健。但在到达被云彩覆盖的山顶、按原路返回山脚之后,我改变了对自己身体的想法,自己是有力而美丽的。
就在我们接近丛林边缘时,开始下雨了。毛毛细雨渐渐变成倾盆大雨,我感到一阵势不可当的清爽。身体上的每一处泥巴都被雨水冲刷掉了,而自己隐藏多年的消极想法也随之消失无踪。
——詹妮佛·雷科斯托姆