Chapter 1Textile Fibers纤维篇
The Working Objective
Task 1. To be able to classify the various types of textile materials
Task 2. To describe the properties of various types of natural cellulosic fibersTask 3. To describe the properties of various types of natural protein fibersTask 4. To describe the properties of various types of manmade fibers as well as the new fibersTask 1Common textile fibers’ classification
常见纺织纤维分类Task 2To describe the natural cellulosic fibers
描述天然纤维素纤维纺织应用英语Chapter 1Textile Fibers纤维篇General informationNatural cellulosic fibers天然纤维素纤维Being derived from a wide variety of plant sources, natural cellulosic fibers are classified into various types, each possessing distinctive qualities or properties that distinguish it from others and make it especially suitable for certain end uses. The general characteristics of natural cellulosic fibers as a class or group can be summarized as follows:Physical PropertiesThe density of cellulosic fibers tends to be relatively high, which makes fabrics woven from these fibers feel comparatively heavy. As a result of their having relatively low elasticity and resilience, they wrinkle easily and do not recover from wrinkling readily. Absorbency and moisture regain are generally good. Most cellulosic fibers are, therefore, slow to dry after wetting, comfortable to wear, and easy to dye. Cellulosic fibers are good conductors of heat and electricity. As good conductors of heat, they carry warmth away from the body and are favored for use in hot weather and warm climates. Since they conduct electricity, cellulosic fibers neither build up static electricity nor produce shocks when worn. Cellulosic fibers tend to burn easily, with a quick yellow flame, much as paper. Most cellulosic fibers can, however, withstand fairly high dry heat or ironing temperatures before they scorch. Chemical propertiesChemical properties of cellulosic fibers include good resistance to alkalis. Excessive bleaching will harm cellulosic fibers, although carefully controlled bleaching is less detrimental. Such properties as the withstanding of high water temperature permit laundering of cellulosic fibers with strong detergent, controlled bleaching, and hot water temperatures. The unique combination of properties—durability, low cost, easy washability, and comfort—has made cotton not only a material desirable for summer clothes, work clothes, towels, and sheets, but also a standard for great masses of the world’s people who live in warm and subtropical climates. Even though the man-made fibers have encroached on the markets that were dominated by 100 percent cotton fibers, the cotton-look is still maintained and cotton forms up to 65 percent of the fibers in blended fabrics. New Words and Expressionscellulosic 纤维素的source 来源,起源derive 引出 miscellaneous 各种的 summarize 概述 density 密度,比重comparatively 比较地 elasticity 弹性resilience 弹力,回弹 wrinkle 折皱readily 容易地 absorbency 吸水性recover 回复 comfortable 舒服的withstand抵挡,经受住 ironing熨烫shock 电击 scorch 烫焦alkali 碱 bleach 漂白detrimental 损害的,有害的 excessive 过度的,过量的launder 洗涤 detergent 洗涤剂,净洗剂washability 易洗性 subtropical 亚热带的encroach 侵入 maintain保持,维持unique 独特的,**的 blend 混合,混纺物dominate 统治,控制 wrinkle recovery 折皱回复度end use *终用途 moisture regain 回潮率Notes1. Being derived from a wide variety of plant sources…由于来自不同的植物源……2. classify into 把……分类。3. …and the like, each possessing distinctive qualities or properties that distinguish it from others and make it especially suitable for certain end uses. “……等等,每一种纤维都具有使自己与其他纤维相区别并使之特别适合于某些*终用途的品质或性能”。 “and the like”等等;like 在这里是名词,需与定冠词the 连用。each possessing…end uses 系独立分词结构,逻辑主语为each, 作状语,表示伴随情况。4. …much as paper:……这种情况与纸张(易于燃烧,烧着呈黄色的火焰)十分类似。much as作“……几乎一样”解。接近于“just as”这是一个方式状语从句,much系副词作状语。paper后省略了“tends to burn easily, with a quick yellow flame”。Exercises Part 1Put the following expressions into Chinese1. distinguish it from others and make it especially suitable for certain end uses2. Absorbency and moisture regain are generally good. 3. They carry warmth away from the body and are favored for use in hot weather and warm climates. 4. withstand fairly high dry heat or ironing temperatures before they scorch5. durability, low cost, easy washability, and comfortPart 2Questions 1. What are natural cellulosic fibers classified into?2. What are the general characteristics of natural cellulosic fibers?3. How about the burning conditions of cellulosic fibers?4. Talk about the properties of cotton fiber. Unit 1Cotton棉Cotton today is the most used textile fiber in the world. Its current consumption market share is approximately 56 percent for all fibers used for apparel and home furnishings and sold in the U.S. It is generally recognized that most consumers prefer cotton personal care items to those containing synthetic fibers. The earliest evidence of using cotton is from India and the date assigned to this fabric is 3000 B. C. Cotton cultivation first spread from India to Egypt, China and the South Pacific. Even though cotton fiber had been known already in Southern America, the large-scale cotton cultivation in Northern America began in the 16th century with the arrival of colonists to southern parts of today’s United States. With this new technology, it was possible to produce more cotton fiber, which resulted in big changes in the spinning and weaving industry, especially in England. Cottons are generally classified according to their length:⑴Sea Island cotton ⑵Upland cotton ⑶Egyptian cotton. Cotton, as a natural cellulosic fiber, has a lot of characteristics, such as: Comfortable soft hand; Good absorbency; Color retention; Prints well; Machine-washable; Dry-cleanable; Good strength; Easy to handle and sew. Cotton fiber appears as a long, thin, irregular, convoluted (复杂的) and flattened (扁平的) tube. The cross section of a mature fiber shows a thin cuticle (表皮) and primary wall on the outside and a hollow collapsed (塌陷的) cavity (空腔) in the center of the fiber (See in Fig.1.1). Fig.1.1Observation under microscopeThe moisture regain(回潮率)of cotton is about 7.1%~8.5% and the moisture absorption is 7%~8%. Cotton is attacked by hot dilute or cold concentrated acid (酸)ions(离子). Cold weak acids do not affect it. The fibers show excellent resistance to alkalis(碱). The cotton buyer usually selects species and grades of cotton to produce specific yarns. If a fabric such as a part wool blanket is to be produced, the cotton buyer will select Peruvian, China, or Indian cottons which have a harsh, rough, wool-like handle. Where extremely fine texture, silkness and great strength are desired, the cotton buyer may choose Sea Island staple or Egyptian cotton. During the past 200 years, cottons have evolved hybridization to become the industrial cottons today. In the Practice United States, they are closely related to Sea Island cotton which came into prominence along the coast of South Carolina and to the Egyptian-type species which gained popularity of its high-quality fiber for use in the fine counts. American-grown cottons are divided into grades according to length of staple, uniformity, strength, color, cleanliness and flexibility. These are compared with a standard supplied by the United States Department of Agriculture. A cotton mill often averages up the various grades of cotton to produce a fairly uniform yarn. All normal cotton fibers have a soft creamy tint and some of the long staple fibers like the Egyptian cotton, are more creamy in color than the Upland and the Sea Island cotton. Cotton is never truly white and the nature of the pigment responsible for the color is really not known. New Words and Expressionsapproximately 近似convoluted 复杂的convoluted 复杂的 flattened (扁平的) collapsed 塌陷的 cavity 空腔moisture regain回潮率 acid 酸alkalis碱 Peruvian 秘鲁harsh 粗糙的 rough 毛糙的,粗糙的desire 要求,愿望 evolve进化yarn 纱线 count 支数,号数fabric 织物 blanket 毛毯handle 手感 texture 织物质地silkness 像丝绸一样的 Sea Island staple 海岛棉hybridization 杂交 staple 短纤维pigment 色素,颜料 uniformity 均匀度flexibility 柔软度 Notes 1. species and grades of cotton: 不同种类和等级的棉花。2. harsh, rough wool-like handle: 像羊毛一样粗糙的手感。3. fine structure: 织物细密的质地。4. come into prominence: 占主要地位。5. fine co